I've been exploring different European cities trying to figure out where the "real" city life happens vs where tourists cluster. Every city seems to have at least one area that locals love but visitors never find.
For example in Rome, everyone goes to the historic center but Testaccio has better food and actual Romans eating there. In London, everyone stays in Westminster/Soho but Bermondsey has an incredible food scene around Maltby Street Market.
What's the one neighborhood in your city that you'd recommend to someone who wants to skip the tourist version?